Street Scenes in Jerusalem

One day not long ago I was sitting in one of my favorite cafes in the Old City of Jerusalem. This is a place I visit often, as part of my work. Most times I don't even have time to sit here.

But on this occasion I did. The tourist I was guiding was visiting the Western Wall Tunnels and was doing it with one of the local guides. This gave me time to walk the streets alone, take photos, but most of all to sit in my cafe.

The reason I love sitting there is that to me this street and this point is typical of the Old City and of Jerusalem. To me Jerusalem is not, has never been, and never will be, what is shown on the media throughout the world.

Like with so many other things that the media reports about, it has a hard time showing every day life, the life that the residents of Jerusalem, old or new, experience. This is why I like to sit in my cafe and look at who passes by.

Now I should also tell you that the Old City of Jerusalem, within the old ramparts, is divided into four quarters - the Muslim Quarter, Christian Quarter, the Jewish Quarter and the Armenian Quarter. Don't get me wrong. There are no boundaries in the City. They are more like the four neighborhoods of the Old City.

Due to its long history and very special character these neighborhoods sprang up. Just like any modern Western city may have its China Town, or Little Italy, or whatever other name. People like to live with other people of their own kind. There is nothing political about these neighborhoods, and they spill over into each other, and that trend is growing.

My cafe is in the heart of the Muslim Quarter, across the street from The Third Station of The Cross. It is on one of the main thoroughfares in the Old City, running from The Damascus Gate in the north, is a small part of the Via Dolorosa, past the Western Wall Plaza to Dung Gate in the south.

The street connects between very orthodox Jewish neighborhoods outside the Old City and the Western Wall, the holiest place for Jews. It is a section of the Via Dolorosa, revered by Christians from all parts of the world. It leads to some of the main shopping areas for local Arabs living inside or outside the Old City.

If you sit there long enough, you will be able to see the whole world pass by. Catholic priests, Orthodox Jews, Arab women dressed in their modest clothes, ordinary non-religious Israelis passing the day in the Old City, tourists in various levels of dress codes.

If you are lucky you may see two or three Israeli policemen. True they are as heavily armed, maybe a little more, as most US cops.

You will see devout Catholic groups making their way along the Via Dolorosa toward the Church of the Holy Sepulcher, carrying a cross in turns, stopping at each station to say the appropriate prayer at each station.

You will see less traditional Christian groups received explanations from their guide as to the events that took place at that station.

If you look down on the paving stones between the Cafe and the Third Station, you will see very large paving stones that were found some 40 years ago, when work was being done on the water and sewage systems in the Old City. These paving stones date back to the 5th century Byzantine Jerusalem.

And while you are watching all of this hub, you may be drinking cups of hot, bitter, sweet Arab coffee, a cold soda, or a refreshing glass of tea with mint. If you happen to be there when it is lunch time, this cafe probably sells the best pizza in the bazaars of the Old City of Jerusalem.